Does

We currently have registered and unregistered does, yet have not applied for our registration yet. Planning on applying and receiving in 2017.

Picture coming soon.

“Amelia”
Unregistered
DOB:
Mom:
Dad:Red with a white band under belly behind front legs. Light blue eyes, white ears with red speckles. Large stature with deep body cavity. Has triplets every birth with high milk quantity (can feed all three). Always has a boy/girl mix with different colorings. Mostly blue eyed babies. Downsides are Osteoarthritis diagnosed from vet and rarely one of the triplets can be born underweight, while other two are huge. Harder to milk because she doesn’t let her milk down like other goats/smaller teats. Mild temperament.

Picture coming soon.

“Sasha”
Unregistered
DOB:Mom:
Dad:
Black and grey coat with black legs and face. Light blue eyes, white ears with black speckles. Has twins or triplets, yet mostly triplets all large. Always has a boy and girl in the mix with black/white/grey colorings and mostly blue eyes. Large abundance of milk with large udder. Short/small stature with large body cavity. Milks out all milk, and even body fat (good producer). Loves being milked on stand. Downsides are a slight under bite, somewhat of a temper with other goats (gets picked on), and her birthing needs a watchful eye because her babies come out fast/get trapped in her thick amniotic sac she produces. Hoof trimming needed more for correction of splayed hooves.

Picture coming soon.

“Pearl”
Unregistered
DOB: 3/1/2015
Mom: “Amelia”
Dad: “Little Boy”
All black with white spot on head. White ears/muzzle with black speckles. Brown eyes. First set of babies were large brown eyed twins with no black (boy/girl). Has a medium amount of milk for first birthing. Tight udder with small teats. Was a bottle fed baby. Downsides are that she has a small second teat on each teat. Very mild temperament and great mothering instincts.

Picture to come.

“Wheatie”
Unregistered
DOB: 3/1/2015
Mom: “Amelia”
Dad: “Little Boy”Light sandy color with white strip under back belly, white patch on left side, white patch on head. Dark brown on legs. White band above muzzle with brown eyes. First baby was a girl with identical markings and blue eyes. Excellent mothering skills. Very mild temperament. Has a small tight udder with small amount of milk for first baby. Small teats. Downside is that she has a small extra teat on the left teat.

“Cali”
Unregistered
DOB: 3/1/2015
Mom: “Peaches”
Dad: “Little Boy”
Calico coloring of dark brown, buckskin, white, tan, and black. Mild temperament with brown eyes. Black stripe down back. Tall goat. Has not taken since bred when the other yearlings were bred and was left in the billy pen for a while. May have taken in late Summer, if not, will probably sell. Time will tell!

“Peaches”
Unregistered
DOB:
Mom:
Dad:Peach/champagne and white “Paint Holstein” coloring all over. Very large goat that gains weight fast – bully and leader of herd. Has black hooves and brown eyes. White line down back. Has twins that are huge – mostly two males, never two females. Produces a lot of milk, yet does not shed weight. Large udder and teats.

“Phylis”
Registered
DOB:
Mom:
Dad:
Tan red with white on under belly, left front foot, top of head, and part of muzzle. Honey brown eyes. Has twins every time – more girls than boys. Small tight udder with medium large sized teats. Great leg and hoof placement. Good chest wall. Will include a link to her lineage soon. Very mild temperament. Produced a medium amount of milk on first two birthings.

“Dahlia”
Registered
DOB: 6/12/2015
Mom: “Phylis”
Dad: “Registered Billy” – unnamed until registered, came from same farm as “Phylis”
Calico moon spotted coloring of dark brown, light red tan, grey, and white. Has light red tan legs and honey brown eyes. First baby was a dark brown boy with blue eyes. Has a very very mild temperament. Great full large udder with very large teats. Great leg placement and chest wall. All around great goat.

Picture to come.
“Baby”
Unregistered
DOB: 9/7/2015
Mom: “Amelia”
Dad: “Little Boy”
Tan with brown legs. Brown eyes. Was a very small triplet of Amelia’s and had some trouble gaining her full weight until a year old because one of her legs had to be amputated at 1 month old. Planning on her being bred since she is at weight and will see how pregnancy will go with three legs. Should go perfectly fine. Did not want to give her up because of the maintenance and plan to let her live life to the fullest. Very mild temperament, gets around very well, healthy little goat!

Picture on the way.
“Prissy”
Unregistered
DOB: 3/6/2016
Mom: “Amelia”
Dad: “Little Boy”
Calico grey, white, red with light blue eyes. Was the smallest of triplets and is super miniature. Will see how her weight gain goes up to her breeding mark to see if she will be bred or will wait. Did not want anyone to breed her prematurely, so kept for coloring and ethics purposes.

Picture on the way.
“Autumn”
Unregistered
DOB: 2/22/2016
Mom: “Pearl”
Dad: “Registered Billy”
All tan red with white on underbelly. Brown eyes. Waiting on 6 mo. testing to begin breeding for kidding in Spring 2017.

Picture on the way.
“Grace”
Unregistered
DOB: 4/5/2016
Mom: “Sasha”
Dad: “Little Boy”
Grey and white with blue eyes. Waiting on 6 mo. testing to begin breeding for kidding in Spring 2017.

 

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Bucks

We only have one buck at the moment – he is unregistered.

We are working on getting a registered buck so we can get our registration complete by 2017.

Picture to come.

“Bo”
Unregistered
DOB: 2/20/2015
Mom: “Speckles” Dad: “Little Boy”
Black and white “paint Holstein” look with a black heart on his back – Light blue eyes with pink nose. Black with white speckles on ears. Mild temperament, bottle fed baby.

Goats for Sale!

Currently, there are three males pictured above that are available for sale – all are castrated (not intact) and have been handled quite frequently – we use them for weed control in and around parts of the garden. They are up to date on yearly shots and wormings. All have blue eyes! Sweet boys that definitely come to food. $100 each or 2+ for $75 each. The brown and white is biggest, red and white medium sized, and black and white is small for his age. Great Christmas gifts!
We have all Nigerian Dwarves registered and un-registered. We have more babies that will be due near November 2016- ready to go to their homes January 2017! They will be posted at a later date.

If you would like to be contacted when more babies will become available or want to be added to the waiting list, email thetexascrafter@live.com.When you email, list which kind (registered or unregistered) and the sex you would prefer.
Girls are the most popular.


When making deposits:

***Pick up only (will meet half way on certain circumstances – will add on fuel cost)- deposit will only be returned if the baby deceases before leaving the farm. If not picked up within 30 days of go-home date or an agreed upon date with us, the deposit will be forfeit. Select the baby wanting to deposit, and then click the PayPal button. Can pay with card or cash in person as well if you would like to make an appointment. Contact us at thetexascrafter@live.com.
*** The deposit goes to the total cost of the goat. ex) $100 goat with a $25 depost = $75 on pick up. Adult goats do not need deposits and can be picked up on a set upon date from both parties.


*** Adult goats that are sold are up to date on their worming, have their yearly CD&T shot, and have had their CAE test done unless specified. A copy of the CAE paperwork can be requested. Babies that are sold will have their first/and or second CD&T shot, coccidiosis preventative, and worming when leaving the farm unless sold under one month of age. All of the herd is healthy and goats are healthy upon leaving the farm – once leaving the farm, the persons purchasing the animal is responsible for happenings outside of the farm.





~Michelle
Updated November 18, 2017

Email Contact:
thetexascrafter@live.com
Cell:
(512)585-9547

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http://www.facebook.com/thetexascrafter

Purchase some Homemade Artisan Lye Goat Milk Soap in Our Store:
http://www.etsy.com/shop/thetexascrafter

How to Milk Mini Goats

Many people are asking about this so I thought I should share. I have learned a lot from online, books, and my family that has been milking cows most of their lives. Milking is in our family, so it seems to come natural to me and I very much enjoy it.

The rewards are endless – milk for me, for making soap to sell, for my chicks/chickens, and all sorts of cheeses, ice cream, and lovelies for us to eat. (I will put recipes and tips on creating these lovely things in later posts).

Chocolate goat milk ice cream is our favorite.

Chocolate goat milk ice cream is our favorite.

Good 'ol farmer's market cheese.

Good ‘ol farmer’s market cheese.

You could make soap from the milk

Soap!

A few things to say before I start explaining – it is a commitment. You have to milk every day at around the same time or else your goats will dry up (unless they have babies still suckling on them). Some days can be hard, but don’t give up! The benefits can be rewarding!

I am milking one Pygmy goat and four Nigerian Dwarf goats, so this is for the more mini breeds of goats – I’m sure that what you will need for minis could be upsized for whatever breed. I milk only once a day. Some breeds would have to be milked twice. Make sure that it is close to 12 hours apart when the milkings are if milking twice (i.e. 9am and 9pm). It is usually on how much your does produce.

Below are the supplies and how to milk for any goat:

Supplies:

  1. A Milking Table

    • I made my milking table with 2×4’s, some hardware cloth, some paint, and an old piece of pipe that was in a V shape to put their heads through. I built it into a square with hardware cloth over the top so the could stand. From that, I fastened the V so it would hold their heads and made a holder for their food bucket. They can eat while being milked, but their heads are stuck in the V incase they decide otherwise.

    • Here is the milking table with chair and trash bucket.

      Here is the milking table with chair and trash bucket.

      The head holder on the milking table with buket holder helps restrain and keep her busy eating. Also known as "the V".

      The head holder on the milking table with buket holder helps restrain and keep her busy eating. Also known as “the V”.

  2. A Stainless Steel Mixing Bowl and a Small Stainless Steel Pot with Lid

    • Stainless steel is a good holder for milk because it doesn’t transfer or hold the tastes from the metal – unlike plastic or aluminum. It is also easy to clean. The mixing  bowl will be used for catching the milk and the pot for an udder wash.

    • A stainless steel bowl helps the milk stay tasting fresh. Plastics or aluminum make it taste off.
      A stainless steel bowl helps the milk stay tasting fresh. Plastics or aluminum make it taste off.
  3. A Black Cup

    • A black cup is very useful in milking because when inside the cup, milk can stand out when inspecting your milk quality. I use a black guacamole bowl – it works perfectly.

  4. Roll of Paper Towels and a Teat Dip or Spray

    • Paper towels are a must and it’s okay to get the off-brand, but not the really cheap one ply ones that fall apart. Teat dip is also necessary unless they still have kids suckling on them to prevent infection of the teat/udder. You can get this at a dairy supply or feed store. You could also use an appropriate iodine spray that is for cleaning, but NOT wounds.

  5. Milker or Hands

    • There are a lot of milkers out there – I did some research and use a hand operated one that uses pressure. It sucks the milk right out! And for a less expensive option than buying ones for hundreds or even thousands of dollars.

  6. Clippers

    • I usually use clippers and clip the hair inside the back legs, on the front of the back legs, and all around the udder area plus some every few weeks. It’s easier to handle and keeps the hair away from the milk. I use some pet clippers and olive oil as lubricant for the clippers so that if it gets on the does, it won’t effect the milk. The clipping part can be optional, but it is a wise suggestion. I usually do this before any milking occurs because it can be a long process.

  7. Large Pot with Lid

    • This pot will be used to keep ice water in for the cooling part of the milking process which will be discussed later.

  8. Mason Jars or Milk Jugs

    • Jars will be used to keep the milk in during milking and/or after milking and jugs just for after milking.

  9. Milk Sieve Paper and Stainless Steel Funnel

    • This is for sieving out the milk after it has cooled and is ready to transfer into jars or jugs for consumption.

  10. Bleach, Dish Washing Soap, and Clean Dish Rag

    • For the clean up after.

 

Process:

First, I fill up the small stainless steel pot 1/4 full with water. I use only water because soap and other washes will chap the udder, making it unpleasant to milk and unpleasant for the doe. I also fill up the large pot with all the ice from my ice compartment and fill it to about half – to where there is equal ice to water to make sure it doesn’t melt fast. I put the hand milker, stainless steel bowl, black cup, paper towels, some mason jars, and the teat dip in my basket and go out to the barn.

Here are the ice bath and the water udder cleaning bucket

Here are the ice bath and the water udder cleaning bucket

Here are the materials I use for every milking

Here are the materials I use for every milking

I then get a doe on the milking table (usually they willingly run as fast as they can and jump on the table themselves from the pen) and secure her in the V on the stand via her collar.

Milking Table

I give her the food in the bucket and she starts feeding. I secure their feet down with two dog leashes attached to the feet so she can’t kick the bucket over or try to move around.

These are the leg hobbles made from leashes to keep the goats from kicking.

These are the leg hobbles made from leashes to keep the goats from kicking.

I then take a paper towel and dip it in the stainless steel pot of water and wash her udder. I also like to clean the inside of the legs that the udder touches so that all is clean and sanitary. Sometimes it is still dirty so I take another paper towel and wash again. DO NOT reuse the paper towels because there can be bacteria and bad germs. Once you use one, throw it away and use another. Then, take another dry paper towel and dry off the udder.

 

Cleaning Udders

A good wipe down helps keep things sanitary during milking.

A good wipe down helps keep things sanitary during milking.

 

Next, take the black cup and put two squirts of milk from one teat in there. These first squirts gets out the bacteria and allows you to inspect the milk. If it has white clumps or blood, then you should not drink the milk. I would suggest milking the doe separate by hand and last so you do not contaminate. This would be a sick doe and should be taken to the vet because she may have Mastitis or another ailment. Otherwise, the milk is good to go on that side. Pour it out and do the same on the other teat.

A black cup for squirting the first milk is vital to check for infection.

A black cup for squirting the first milk is vital to check for infection.

If both are fine, then take your milker and start milking! You could also milk by hand into the stainless steel milking bowl. My hand milker milks up until the last bit which I have to milk by hand into the bowl. Usually massaging the udder will help her let down the remaining milk from her udder. If the doe puts her foot in the bowl of milk, you have to pour out the bowl and clean the bowl. Same with if you forget to squirt out the first bacteria. That milk would have to be thrown out and milker cleaned unless you were using the milk for something other than consumption. My cat or chickens usually get a treat when these things happen in the barn. Squirt or dip the teats with the teat wash.

Pour milk into the mason jars and secure with a lid. Put into the ice water bath in the large pot. Continue on the same steps with the rest of the does until all are milked. Make sure that the milk is still ice cold and put into the refrigerator after milking. Take hot water, bleach, and a clean wash rag and clean all the supplies. Using a clean wash rag every cleaning helps prevent contamination of germs to the equipment.

Glass canning jars are good for storing milk in the fridge.

Glass canning jars are good for storing milk in the fridge.

Sticking the milk in the ice bucket within a few minutes helps keep the milk fresher for longer later in the fridge.

Sticking the milk in the ice bucket within a few minutes helps keep the milk fresher for longer later in the fridge.

Make sure that the container you will use has been cleaned on the inside with hot bleach water (jar or jug) and the top as well. Put the funnel in the mouth of the container with the sieve paper in the funnel and pour the cold milk from the fridge in through the sieve. The sieve catches all of the particles like the missed hair or other things like dirt. Pour until full, date with a permanent marker, and secure the lid. The milk should last from 1 to 2 weeks in the fridge. Make sure all supplies are clean for the next day’s milking.

 

One of the greatest benefits is fresh milk!

One of the greatest benefits is fresh milk!

And that is how you milk mini goats! Thank you for reading and if you have any questions or comments, feel free to leave a comment below!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posing for the picture

Posing for the picture